Handy Hints


Please note these are handy hints only and anybody who takes the advice does so at their own risk. Where possible always test in small inconspicuous areas. Every care is taken to provide reliable details, but if in doubt ask a professional. You can get in touch via email or call 07810 825089

Repairing Warped floorboards – Tongue and Groove

Warped floorboards

Warped floorboards

Repairing solid wood laminate flooring.


Step 1:

Leaking inlet hose

Leaking Inlet Hose

Find the cause and fix – In this case it was a dripping dishwasher inlet hose, the floor only got bad when the property was vacant for a month, but could have been dripping slowly for a while.

Step 2:

Allow the area time to dry out.

Step 3:

Source replacement boards, in this case there was 3 spare boards left over from installation  (very Lucky indeed!)

Step 4:

Remove damaged boards – Tongues were cut from damaged boards and then boards were prised up, this was made more difficult due to the secret nails which during installation are driven through the tongue and rebated. Tongues were removed with by a variety of methods, including cutting with a Stanley knife, wood saw and where the boards were very tight the damaged boards were chiseled around the nails to release the board. Once removed the area was well hoovered to remove all chips and sawdust.

Cutting Tongue

Cutting Tongue on board

Removed Floorboards

Removed Floorboards

Water Damaged Floorboard

Water Damaged Floorboard

Warped Flooring Measurement

Warped Flooring Measurement

Damaged Boards Completely Removed

Damaged Boards Completely Removed


Step 5:

Install newboards. Two boards were complete and these board were fitted fully intact by putting in similar to how the boards looked when warped, raised in the Centre and attached to outside tongue and grooves then pushed down into place. The boards could then be slid freely into position and one of the boards had secret nailing fitted. When fitting the final two sections of board a tongue and groove needed to be created and then the new edge given a bevel with a chisel. The first board was placed intact with a flush joint to the small section of board that had been cut for removal. It was not possible to make this a tongue and groove joint but is in a minimal traffic area.  The last board to go down required the underside of the groove to be removed and the edge to be planed as the existing boards in this section are permanently swollen from their original size.  This board is held in place by a few oval nails and holes filled with filler.

New Boards Laid

New Boards Laid

Board Ends

Board Ends

Warp Measurements

Warp Measurements


Step 6:

Reinstate new section of white quadrant beading.

Beading on Skirting board

Beading on Skirting board

Painted Skirting board

Painted Skirting board

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Hanging Curtains!

Antique Brass Curtain Pole

Antique Brass Curtain Pole

What pitfalls may I come up against?

Curtains are a fairly standard to many rooms, but can often cause some annoying problems when not installed properly – like falling down and leaving a gaping hole in the plaster!

In every case getting a good strong fixing for the track or pole is essential, especially for heavy curtains.

In an old tenement flat for instance the Lathe and Plaster walls are unlikely to provide a secure fixing where you need to put the bracket for the pole and certainly not for the many clips on a track. The Same can be said for the modern Plasterboard lined walls.  Where possible it is a good idea to use the wooden surround of the window to affix the track or pole, however if this is not possible then it may be necessary to install a strap of wood to span the wall studs and allow a secure fixing for the brackets in the correct positions. The wooden straps can either be painted to blend with the wall, or left untreated.

Curtain Pole or curtain track?

The choice of a pole or a track is generally a matter of preference for design style, as well as functionality – Availability from your local DIY store may also be your limiting factor. A bay window generally would use use a flexible track, either Corded or un-corded depending on height and weight of the curtains. When using a corded track it may be worth considering a custom made track rather than an off the shelf option. In a large bay window the flexible track is often sold in two sections with a joint in the middle, but can also be ordered as a full length. Curtain Tracks differ from poles in that they use gliders in a fixed groove, and a pole has a ring that slides on the pole, however over the years improvements have allowed manufacturers to produce Curtain poles with gliders, both straight and Curved.

In the end the choice will often be dictated by preference and/or budget!

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Wall Types

When it comes to putting up a shelf, curtain track or a heavy mirror, knowing what the wall structure is will help determine how a safe and reliable fixing is achieved.

There are 4 common type of wall constructions in Edinburgh properties;

1: Lath and Plaster
2: Plasterboard Stud walls
3: Solid Masonry walls
4: Plasterboard Dot & Dab masonry walls
**UPDATE**

Each Wall requires the correct fixing.

Lath & Plaster Wall

Lath & Plaster Wall – common in tenement flats

1. Lath & Plaster

typically this type of wall is found in the older properties, like tenement flats, and has a solid yet hollow sound when tapped.  Fixing into the wall can seem secure but may only be a tentative fixing to the lath, which may suit a lighteight application but ideally you need to be hitting a stud for maximum strength, but this doesn’t always allow you to put the mirror quite where you had in mind. Using any form of rawl plug can make matters worse as their is no strength in the fixing as the plaster being very old is often quite crumbly.

Further Reading          Back to Top

Stud Plasterboard Wall

Stud Plasterboard Wall

2. Plasterboard Stud Wall

This type of construction is very common in new buildings and where renovation work has been carried out. Stud walls are quick and cheap to put up.

Like the Lath and plaster the strength of the plasterboard is limited to lighter weight fixing applications and heavier items can be fitted but only when you can spread the load, you certainly could not hang a heavy mirror on a single fitting. To get the maximum strength you again would be best to try and utilise the Stud or noggin. Tapping this wall will allow you to narrow down where the stud is located as the wall generally sound hollow until you hit a stud when it should sound more solid. Metal studwork is also becoming more popular, this can make tapping for a stud more difficult as the metal stud is also hollow.

Further Reading          Back to Top 

Solid Masonry Wall

Solid Masonry Wall

3. Solid Masonry Wall

Masonry walls are by far my favourite wall for fixing to because it offers a very strong fixing. Even with a nice strong masory wall you still have a couple of things to consider. How hard is the brick or breeze blocks, this will in turn determine if you need a more powerful drill and quality masonry drill bit – along with a god bit of muscle power behind the drill!

One other downside is that when the brick is covered with the plaster finish and hides the jointwork of the brick meaning you don’t know until you start drilling if you are going to hit the mortar gap between. This is not so problematic in newer buildings where the mortar is in sound condition but can be very soft and weak in older buildings. When tapping the wall to determine its structure you would hear a good solid thud, unless the plaster was loose in areas which would sound slightly hollow – Likely in old properties.

Further Reading          Back to Top

Dot & Dab Plasterboard wall

Dot & Dab Plasterboard wall

4. Dot & Dab Plasterboard Wall

This is a less common type of wall, but is very similar in principal to the solid Masonry wall except the plasterboard has a small gap between it and the Masonry. Fixing is generally pretty good with similar problems with the masonry wall, like hitting a mortar joint or the wall being very tough to drill. This wall can be deceiving when tapping as it can sound hollow like a stud wall however tapping the wall more widespread would allow you to hear a more regular solid thud every time you tapped a dab.

 


illustration to follow - paramount partition board

Illustration to follow -paramount partition board

**UPDATE**

I recently came across a new wall structure for me. this wall is compiled of 2 sheets of wallboard (plasterboard) and they must have been factory made with a latticework of cardboard glued in-between. This is a very narrow wall structure, only about a couple of inches, but it is likely to have similar strengths and weaknesses as a standard stud wall except without many studs! so not a load bearing structure.  I don’t believe this is a common and may be ‘paramount partition board’ or ‘eggbox partition’ used in the 60s and 70s in affordable housing. No

 

Further Reading          Back to Top 

Call now for a no obligation estimate 07810 825089

Or alternatively send a text or email – Handy David Edinburgh Handyman Services

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Leather Double bed for sale – SOLD

Double bed - Leather

Double bed – Leather*

Double bed, leather, in very good condition. £SOLD

Viewing can be arranged, I can also assemble (£30) delivery (£10)

please call 07810825089 or email if interested or you have any questions.

*please note the image is not the exact bed but is very similar.

*Item is now sold

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Wall light fittings for sale #SOLD

Wall Light

Wall Lights

 

Matching pair of wall light fittings recently removed from a property. both in full working order when removed but would advise having checked before fitting.

£SOLD for the pair

I can deliver for a small fee.
please call 07810825089 or email if interested or you have any questions.

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Socket Set For Sale – £SOLD

Socket Set

Socket Set – For Sale – £25

Socket Set

Socket Set – For Sale – £25

Socket Set 1/2″ 24 Pieces – Bought in emergency used once.
Product Code: 53503 details on set can be seen on SCREWFIX website use product code to search.

24 Piece Set. Heat-treated chrome vanadium steel with mirror polished chrome finish. Quick release, 72 tooth, ratchet handle. Product contents:
Sockets: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24mm. 10 – 1/2″ DR. SAE Socket Set: 3/8″, 7/16″, 1/2″, 9/16″, 5/8″, 1/16″, 3/4″, 13/16″, 7/8″, 15/16″. 1 x 1/2″ DR. ratchet handle with quick bar release. 2 x ½” DR. extension bars: 125 and 250mm.

 

Please Call if Interested 07810825089 or Send Email

Sorry this item has now been sold.

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Sheet Materials

Plywood

Plywood

– What is the difference between MDF, chipboard, ply, Conti Board and hardboard?

– What can I use them for?

Okay so what’s the difference, well cost is a major factor with external plywood being very expensive – but why?  Plywood is a layered laminate style wood which is very strong and resistant to water damage especially the external grade. So when might I use this? Plywood strength and robust nature means it is ideal for preparing a floor for tiling or simply for strengthening old floorboards. The thickness required depends on the existing floor, most old tenement flats with rickety uneven floorboards require 18mm ply to be laid which will reduce the movement of the floor  and provide a more level surface, which should prevent any tiles which are laid from cracking.

Hardboard is particularly good if you are planning to lay Lino as it is an affordable solution, this is light and easy to work with and will provide a smoother surface to lay the lino which will remove high spots and extend the life of the lino. If the floor is particularly bad  using 6mm or 9mm ply may also be an option.

Chipboard is material made up from recycled wood and is an affordable was to floor a property. Unfortunately this material is particularly vulnerable to moisture and becomes swollen and very soft.

Contiboard is similar to chip board except it has a plastic coating in various optional finishes, such as white, oak, cherry, beech and more. This is commonly used for bedroom furniture construction and shelving when exposure to moisture is not a factor.

MDF  – Medium Density Fibreboard is used for the construction of many items including skirting board, architrave and kitchen cupboard doors.  In some instances it will come laminated in a choice of finishes in much the same way as Contiboard. Similarly to Chipboard and Contiboard, MDF is not well suited to being used in area with arisk of exposure to moisture.  MDF comes commonly in large sheets which can be cut to almost any shape or size. This makes it ideal for bespoke joinery solutions and shelving. MDF can be painted to improve it’s visual appearance.

 

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Floor Tiling

Slate Floor tiles

Slate Floor Tiles

Tiling a floor is a very practical choice for any kitchen or bathroom – the floor is easy to clean and tough wearing, compared to the alternatives:

  • Lino – can tear easily when moving appliances!

  • Laminate Floor – vulnerable to water damage and awkward to repair.

  • Carpet – needs replacing regularly to remain hygienic.

The work involved with tiling a floor can vary depending on what type of flooring exists. A level concrete flooring is ideal, however tiling on wooden floor can be achieved although this requires a substrate of plywood to strengthen the floor and reduce movement which can cause tiles to crack and come loose. Laying an 18mm ply substrate and then a tile will of course leave your bathroom or kitchen floor a noticeable height above adjoining room, so it is likely that your existing door will require a trim.

Tiling a floor is best planned when you can avoid heavy traffic for at least a couple of days. Even with quick set adhesive, it is best to avoid standing on fresh laid tiles for at least 24 hours.

NB: Natural tiles such as slate may also require a sealing agent.

For a quote for tiling floors you can email me or give me a call on 07810 825089

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Which Wall Fixing?

Rawl Plug

Plasterboard Fixing

Before fixing any load-bearing structures to the wall (such as shelving, wall art, paintings, etc), there are some important considerations to bear in mind first. Consider the type of wall and choose the appropriate plug. Remember that not all wall structures can hold what you want on put on them and if they do there may be a restriction on the location.

For instance it isn’t always possible to put a shelf or a heavy mirror exactly where you want it when the wall isn’t brick. With plasterboard and old lath and plaster walls it is best to try and secure fixings to the wall stud.

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Mouldy Silicone

Silicone Gun

Silicone gun

Mouldy silicone is an unsightly mess in a kitchen or bathroom. This is easily sorted by removing all the grotty old silicone and cleaning the contact areas and making sure they are nice and dry before reapplying new silicone. Don’t be tempted to smooth off with a finger as this can be uneven and unsightly. Tools are available to give a professional finish. It should take less than 2 hours to fix a standard size bath and basin. Give me a call or text on 07810 825089 or email me for a quote.

Don’t just ‘live’ with all that bacteria!

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